Dad's Duck Dinner

By Jean-Paul Bourgeois

This is the single most important duck dish that I have ever eaten or created. Until I was 13 years old, the flavor of wild duck simply did not agree with my palate. When my dad started making this dish, which he simply called “duck with apples,” it marked a turning point at the dinner table for me, and my taste buds awakened to waterfowl. The dish has evolved as I’ve made various versions over the last couple of decades, but the foundation remains the same. Tender, perfectly cooked waterfowl is balanced and nuanced with various levels of sweetness, spice, and texture (it even works with snow geese).

This recipe has been responsible for changing the minds of seasoned waterfowl hunters who never developed an appreciation for the complex flavors of wild ducks, as well as folks who are new to this wonderful way of cooking and eating. At duck camps where I cook, it continues to receive such praise as, “the best duck dish I’ve ever had.” To be honest, I tend to agree.

Duck With Apples

Yields: 4 servings

INGREDIENTS

• 4 skin-on duck breast fillets
• 1 pound thick-cut bacon, cut into 1-inch pieces
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1⁄4 teaspoon ground allspice
• 1⁄4 cup Slap Ya Mama Original Blend Cajun Seasoning
• 1/4 cup kosher salt
• 2 Honeycrisp apples, diced into large pieces
• 1 large yellow onion, diced into small pieces
• 1 bunch green onions, sliced
• 2 cloves minced garlic
• 1⁄4 cup butter
• 1⁄2 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
• 1 cup bourbon
• Salt and ground black pepper to taste
• Chopped green onion (optional)
• 2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar
• Hot cooked white rice

PREPARATION

1. In a small bowl, combine cinnamon, allspice, and Cajun seasoning.

2. Pat the duck breast fillets dry and lightly score the skin. Liberally season the skin side of fillets with kosher salt and liberally season the flesh side with the spice mixture. Reserve any remaining spice mixture to adjust seasoning, if desired.

3. In a 10-inch cast-iron skillet, place duck breast fillets skin side down and cook over medium heat until fat is rendered and skin is golden brown. Turn fillets over and increase the heat to high. Cook for 2 minutes, making sure the fillets still look quite reddish-pink, indicating rare to medium-rare. Remove duck from skillet and set aside. Reserve drippings in the skillet.

4. Reduce heat to medium, add bacon, and cook, stirring occasionally, until crisp. Remove bacon from skillet and set on paper towels to drain. Reserve about 1⁄4 cup drippings in skillet.

5. In the same skillet, add apples in one layer and cook over medium-high heat for about 4 minutes, stirring occasionally and getting color on at least one side of the apples. Once apples are slightly softened, remove from skillet and set aside.

6. Add yellow onion, sliced green onion, and garlic to the skillet and cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until they soften and begin to turn golden. Add butter and cook, stirring occasionally, until it melts. Reduce heat to medium-low and add brown sugar, stirring constantly, until melted. Increase heat to high and add bourbon, scraping the bottom of the skillet with a wooden spoon to release any browned bits. Carefully ignite the mixture, shaking the skillet occasionally until the flame subsides. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until sauce is reduced. Taste sauce and adjust seasoning, if necessary.

7. Slice duck breast fillets into 1⁄4-inch strips.

8. Increase heat to high and add reserved apples and duck strips along with any remaining juices to the skillet. Cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture comes together into a sauce. Adjust seasoning to taste with salt, pepper, and reserved seasoning mix. Turn off heat and add bacon, chopped green onion (if desired), and vinegar, gently folding together. Serve on top of white rice or on a platter with toothpicks to enjoy as an appetizer.

About the Author

Jean-Paul Bourgeois grew up in Louisiana and graduated from the Chef John Folse Culinary Institute at Nicholls State University in Thibodaux. Driven by his career as a chef and a genuine curiosity about all things food, he has lived in exciting culinary destinations all over the world, including France; Napa Valley, California; and New York City.